Did you get that Brrzzzrp-think the sound of sizzling electronics, popping diodes and acrid smell of melting wires, only this is my brain and this is my brain on frame geometry. I mean its really not that hard on one level. Seat tube, check!! Top tube, check!! OH, but what about if the frame has a raised bottom bracket like a cross bike? What seat tube length is right for you now? Or maybe its a cross bike and has a low BB like a road bike (trendy now they say). Some give you the dimension of BB height and some use BB drop.... One I know, one I dont....
I buy myself a cyclocross ebay special thats small. I actually like it, but when I get serious this week about dialing it into my Wobblenaught position I find out its not even close. And get this people, Fuji has stated in its catalogs for years that its 48cm frame has a effective top tube length of 534.6mm and I believed them. Guess what-its 508mm!! What does that mean? It means that I bought a frame with a 2.5cm too short top tube. How is that possible? Maybe its done with the new math my daughter will be learning.
I contemplated a custom Cross bike too. Most likely a steel frame from Zak Dieringer. But I have decided I just dont have the computing power to make all the right decisions on trail, rake, seat and head tube angles, Compact or level top tube, BB height, front center distance, chainstay length, wheelbase and how they all interact to bring together a dream race machine that plain old just WORKS on the race track. I mean, one major mistake and its all my fault. NO blaming the manufacturer on this one. Too bad too because Zak's frame will probably never be this reasonable.
So its looking like its off the shelf for me. Ahhhhhh, thats a load off my noggin. But is it?? Lets see there is the Cannondale X6, Jamis Super Nova, Kona Jake the Snake and Major Jake, Specialized Tricross, S-Works tricross, Ridley Supercross, (old) Lemond Poprad, CSK Cyclocross, Seigler Sport carbon.....
Uh ohhhh...Brrzzzpppp...sizzle, sizzle, pop......
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